Gets Paris Gown

How 2 sew Alcenon lace overlay on princess seam silk bodice? Stitch lace w/silk seams? Separately?

My daughter wants her gown to fit like paint. Top is silk, princess seam w/Basque "v" hem. Lace overlay is Alcenon lace. She wants the scallopoed edge of the lace to extend just beyond top and bottom hems of the very fitted top, without seaming the scallops. If I sew the overlay with the silk, the scallopped top edge will have the same princess seams, destroying the evenness of the scallops at the edges, as well as the motifs of the lace on the bodice proper. If I make the overlay separate from the silk bodice (and don't seam it with the silk bodice) I can get the motif placement and the scallop placement right, but the lace overlay won't fit as snugly and may look bulky on top of the silk. Ideas? Suggestions? TIps? BTW: lace was bought in Paris; I don't have much extra so no room for mistakes! Thanks all you experienced bridal seamstresses!

The seams on lace are just overlapped, sewn through by hand and trimmed. If you've got access to Susan Khalje's book "Bridal Couture", it has one of the better discussions I've seen of working with lace.

I would not include the lace in your seamlines... that would be a hand-done overlay if I were sewing it.

ps: "fit like paint" -- is there a built in corset in this dress? Should be, I'd think, with those parameters.

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